Hatching

If your eggs are fertilized, of good quality and that the incubation target levels were met, without any major problems, then the fruit of your work should be a good hatch with quality chicks. The needs of newly born chicks should be met as soon as they are removed from the incubator/hatcher. Adapted food crumbles and water with an additive of vitamins provided, along with the right temperature and hygiene in a draft proof/pet roof brooder are necessary for the chick’s survival. The brooder should be prepared in advance. Old towels/cloths, high grit sandpaper or rough type of paper can be provided during the first few days for the chicks to have a firm grip. This will avoid split legs and slippery surfaces. Newspaper and slippy surfaces should be avoided at all costs. Chicks will peck at anything when newly hatched, so, if possible, avoid wood shavings, sand and such, as bedding during the first few days. A small amount of food can be placed on a cloth or bowl and water in a very shallow adapted chick drinker.
This is a very exciting moment when your work and care will be rewarded by the hatching of your first chicks. Many of us have enjoyed the initial signs of hatching and watched with wonder as the chicks finally hatch. For some, like ourselves, it still remains a magical moment.
If all has gone well, the chicks should hatch over a period of 48 hours. Early and late hatchers can happen. Newly hatched chicks will continue to absorb the nutrients of the egg for at least 24 hours, so it is not advisable to open the incubator until the majority of chicks are hatched. Some professional incubators allow the possibility, without prejudice to unhatched eggs, to open and retrieve hatched chicks. Frequently opening and shutting the incubator will result in the loss of heat and humidity. Unfortunately some chicks may hatch with deformities and abnormalities.
The glossary will give a brief description of splay legs, curly toes and open naval, stuck or sticky membrane. We do not cover here all possibilities ; just the most common. These abnormalities are often related to problems due to the incubator settings or the presence of bacteria and not necessarily quality of egg related. Intervening in the process of hatching, by assisting the chick, is a difficult decision and can result in permanent injury and death of the chick. We would advise discussing with a breeder this eventuality, and reading related documentation, before the hatch date, to be able to make an educated decision.

  • WATER

    A chick drinker has a very shallow ridge for the water to avoid the chick to actually walk in it, getting wet and possibly drowning. If a chick gets wet, its body cannot adapt itself to the temperature fluctuations.

  • FIRST 24-48 HOURS

    For the first 24-48 hours, a chick will not be interested in food or water as it will still be absorbing the yolk. But, as soon as it starts to eat or drink then it cannot survive without. The temperature of the brooder is extremely important until the chick grows its feathers out and can regulate its body temperature independently. The temperature can be generated from a heat lamp, a heat plate or an overhead heating system. Low quality heat lamps should be avoided because of the fire risk.

  • TEMPERATURE

    It is ideal that the chicks are spread out over the surface of the brooder. If the chicks are gathered away from the heat source, the brooder is too hot. If the chicks are gathered under the heat source, the brooder is too cold.

  • FOOD

    To encourage the chicks to start eating after the first 24 hours, you can tap on the floor of the brooder near the crumbles, as would a mother bird. It is useful, if you have several hatches, to take an older chick (of a couple of days) to the brooder, to encourage the others to eat and drink.
    Happy and contented chicks just make a low cheep noise. Unhappy chicks due to temperature, starvation, lack of water or illness will cheep constantly and loudly.