Pre / Post Incubation

Pre requisites for a successful hatch will depend on the quality of the eggs you use, the conditions of storage, (either stored on site or by the breeder)age of eggs, breeder blood line quality and age of the breeders. If you received eggs which have been transported to you, these eggs will need to rest for 24 hours. During transport, it will be difficult to monitor if the eggs have suffered from excessive temperatures. It is best to avoid purchasing eggs during a heatwave or sub zero weather conditions. The correct way to store the eggs is pointy side down. The egg « breathes » through the round end where the air pocket will develop.
When checking your eggs (candling at this point is useful to detect possible air bubbles due to transport, and cracks), it is the perfect time to mark your eggs. The useful information would be the weight, reference if needed, and a cross on one side, a 0 on the other if you need to manually turn your eggs. You can mark the eggs with either a pencil, chalk or a food approved sharpie.
Pre requisites for a successful hatch will depend on the quality of the eggs you use, the conditions of storage, (either stored on site or by the breeder) age of eggs, breeder blood line quality and age of the breeders. If you received eggs which have been transported to you, these eggs will need to rest for 24 hours.
During transport, it will be difficult to monitor if the eggs have suffered from excessive temperatures. It is best to avoid purchasing eggs during a heatwave or sub zero weather conditions.
The correct way to store the eggs is pointy side down. The egg « breathes » through the round end where the air pocket will develop.
When checking your eggs (candling at this point is useful to detect possible air bubbles due to transport, and cracks), it is the perfect time to mark your eggs. The useful information would be the weight, reference if needed, and a cross on one side, a 0 on the other if you need to manually turn your eggs. You can mark the eggs with either a pencil, chalk or a food approved sharpie.

  • EGGS TO BE DISCARDED

    Whether you set eggs under a broody hen or incubate the eggs, it is preferable to select the eggs with the most probability of hatching. Eggs which are too small ; eggs that are undersized will not be able to correctly maintain the desired temperature during incubation. Chicks hatching from undersized eggs have not received the correct nutrients from the yolk and . They may hatch underdeveloped or weak. The shell on eggs that are too small are usually too thin. Eggs which are too large ; larger eggs have more overall total shell surface, but the shell surface is reduced per gram of egg resulting in an insufficient loss of heat. Unusually larger eggs could signify that it contains a double yoke, which rarely if ever will hatch and then with probable abnormalities. An egg of any size is fragile if the shell is too thin. Contamination can enter the egg during the incubation process.

  • CONTAMINATED EGGS

    Dirty or cracked. Do not wash your eggs as this will eliminate the bloom which protects the egg from contamination. Do not rub too hard or scratch the egg for the same reason.
    Dirty or cracked. Do not wash your eggs as this will eliminate the bloom which protects the egg from contamination. Do not rub too hard or scratch the egg for the same reason.

  • AGE OF EGGS

    Eggs older than seven days have a lower fertility rate and therefore less chance to develop. If buying eggs, check with your breeder that the eggs you buy are within the timescale - transport time + 24 hours rest.
    Eggs older than seven days have a lower fertility rate and therefore less chance to develop. If buying eggs, check with your breeder that the eggs you buy are within the timescale - transport time + 24 hours rest. The older the breeder hen, the more restrictive is the timescale of the egg retaining fertility.

  • SHAPE OF EGGS

    Avoid incubating eggs which are too round or too pointy. The perfect egg is that the height is 1.4 x the width. In the case of hatching out healthy chicks, quality over quantity is the better choice.
    Avoid incubating eggs which are too round or too pointy. The perfect egg is that the height is 1.4 x the width. In the case of hatching out healthy chicks, quality over quantity is the better choice.

  • INCUBATOR GOOD PRACTICES

    Cleaning and disinfecting. Your eggs will incubate over several to many weeks. They need to be protected from contamination. Before and after each incubation, the incubator needs to be cleaned and disinfected with an appropriate disinfectant. Cleaning would consist of removing any dirt, dust and down. Removing any residue from the fans. Emptying the water containers of any residual water and disinfecting the tubing. Just spraying with a disinfectant is not enough. The first step would be to suck or blow out any dust and down and then use a safe detergent to physically wash down the incubator. The inside would then need to be sanitised with a safe product (for example F10SC, commonly used by vets worldwide). A proper sanitiser will eliminate bacteria, fungi and virus spores. Once properly cleaned, the incubator needs to dry out to avoid moisture.
    Cleaning and disinfecting. Your eggs will incubate over several to many weeks. They need to be protected from contamination. Before and after each incubation, the incubator needs to be cleaned and disinfected with an appropriate disinfectant. Cleaning would consist of removing any dirt, dust and down. Removing any residue from the fans. Emptying the water containers of any residual water and disinfecting the tubing. Just spraying with a disinfectant is not enough. The first step would be to suck or blow out any dust and down and then use a safe detergent to physically wash down the incubator. The inside would then need to be sanitised with a safe product.
    A proper sanitiser will eliminate bacteria, fungi and virus spores. Once properly cleaned, the incubator needs to dry out to avoid residual moisture.